08 March 2016

Building a Kayak Storage System

Between Cody and me, we have three kayaks and one canoe.  Storing all this outdoor gear is not an easy task; however, the canoe and the Wilderness Kayak are stored and off the ground, so this is storage for two Native Slayer Propels--Lizard Lick is a 10 and Gator Bait is a 13.  After visiting Fishing Tackle Unlimited in Houston on 6 February 2016, we decided how they store their kayaks on the floor was a viable means for us, too.  We set out to Lowe's to acquire our needed materials and headed home.

Materials:
8--1½" diameter, 10 foot long PVC Pipe
16--1½" diameter elbows--take the time to make sure each elbow's opening fits on the pvc pipe.  We found two that were not good fits.
1 package of 4 fluid ounces of Oatey PVC Pipe Primer (purple) and CPVC Cement (orange)
4--3/8" diameter, 4½" long Standard Hex Bolts
8--3/8" diameter, 1¼" Zinc-plated Standard Fender Washers
4--3/8" diameter Standard Split Lock Washers
4--3/8" diameter Zinc-plated Standard Hex Nuts
4 --2" x 14' Ratcheting Tie Down Straps (we already had these and this was their measurements; you can go shorter in length)

Instructions:
  • Measure four of the PVC pipes and mark their center points.
  • Cut these four PVC pipes in half.  They will be your cradle arms.
  • On a new, uncut PVC pipe, measure 32 inches from the end towards the middle of the pipe, and mark this measurement.  Cut the pipe.  Again, measure 32 inches on the same PVC pipe beginning at the opposite end and working towards the center of the pipe, and mark this measurement.  Cut the pipe.  You should now have two pieces from one PVC pipe.  They will be your cross legs. Repeat this step three more times.

When you finish, you should have 16 pieces of pipe:  8 5-foot sections and 8 32-inch sections.

  • Measure each one of the 8 32-inch sections to find and mark their center point.
  • Using a drill press and a 3/8-inch bit, drill a hole at the marked center point.  Take care to clamp the pipe to the platen so the pipe will not roll once the bit begins to drill the hole.

Assemblage:
We found the ground the best surface to assemble the frame, because it provided a relatively flat surface on which to work and guide us.  This adhesive drys VERY quickly.  Avoid "screwing" or "twisting" the pipe into the elbows; instead, slide the pipe into the elbows pushing at opposite ends against one another while keeping the pipe flat on the ground.  Purple primer both ends first (elbow opening and 5 foot pipe end), then orange cement over the purple primer, and insert the pipe.
  • Glue four elbows onto four individual 5-foot pipe sections, ensuring as you are gluing that the pipes and elbows are flat on the ground.  
  • Set two pipes aside for later use.
  • Layout a rectangle using the two pipes on which you just glued the elbows where the elbows are opposite one another, two 32-inch pipes also opposite one another, and two more elbows. Insert the hex bolts in their holes in the 32-inch pipe so that the bolts help you keep the pipe aligned properly during gluing (bolts should be parallel to the ground).
  • Glue a 32-inch pipe into an already glued elbow.
  • Glue an elbow onto the 32-inch pipe.
  • Glue the 5-foot pipe section into the elbow.  The other end of the pipe will have an elbow already glued on it, and this elbow will help stabilize the frame to keep it from rolling. Remember, keep the pipe flat on the ground when you are inserting it into the elbows.
  • Glue the second 32-inch pipe into the previously glued elbow.
  • Glue the elbow onto that 32-inch pipe.
  • Finally, glue the first 5-foot pipe into the last elbow.


Repeat all the steps to make a second rectangle, BUT the last step highlighted in aqua.  DO NOT DO THIS STEP!!  (If you do, you will not be able to assemble the two rectangles together.

  • Hold the completed frame.   
  • Remove one of the hex bolts.  The leg that has the hex bolt will be the outside leg on one end; the leg's opposite side counterpart will be the inside leg.  
  • Slide the unglued frame over the glued frame so that the unglued piece will be up top.  Slide the leg onto the bolt.
  • At the opposite end, insert the hex bolt.  The configuration is:  Hex Bolt, Fender Washer, pvc pipe, pvc pipe, Fender Washer, Split Lock Washer, Hex Nut.
  • Add one of the ratchet straps across at the completed end.
  • Now glue the last remaining piece, the cradle arm, into the elbow.
  • Add the second ratchet strap.
  • The heavier the kayak, the closer you want the straps at the legs and away from the center of the pvc pipe.
Now you should have a kayak stand.
Lizard Lick Native Slayer Propel 10

Gator Bait Native Slayer Propel 13
Our kayak dimensions are:

With trial-and-error, it took us approximately five hours to complete the project.  Hopefully, this blueprint will eliminate about two hours from your completion.  This is a two-man job!
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© 2009-2016 Photos by Cody Bell and flyfshrgrl. Content is the intellectual property of Photos by Cody Bell and flyfshrgrl. No part of this blog may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, or for any purpose without the express written permission of the authors.